How to help your pets feel safe throughout the firework season
By Julie Moss BSc. Hons, AdvCertVPhys, Dip.APhys.
This article largely relates to dogs, but a lot of information is applicable to any animal that is distressed by fireworks.
A fear response to something scary like loud firework noise is entirely natural and forms the basis of the innate fight or flight survival mechanism that animals, including us, possess. It is a vital reaction and enables us to avoid or negate dangerous situations. However, problems may arise when this response goes wrong and your pet becomes over-anxious or unnaturally fearful. The background to why this may occur is outlined here (Why animals get firework phobia). Some animals seem to enjoy fireworks or don’t even notice them. Others turn into quivering wrecks and it may seem impossible to help them. This blog discusses various ways of helping your pet cope if they have a problem.
The main things you need to provide for your pet are as much normality and routine as possible and a place where they feel safe.
Leaving them alone when they are likely to be fearful is not recommended, as your presence will help them to feel safer and you may need to ensure they don’t injure themselves in panic.
Try to keep everything as normal as possible by getting into a suitable routine ahead of the firework season. Avoid decorating or undertaking renovations in the home around this time as it may make the house feel unsafe for your pet if things are moved or missing.
It is best to start weeks in advance with any new routine to establish a habit of getting walks out of the way during the day. This means you don’t have to linger outside with your dog in the dark for long periods of time and will prevent them being over-exposed to fireworks. It is important to start early so your dog’s toileting routine can be adjusted. Then all that is needed in the evening is a quick wee in the yard and back in again once at teatime and again before bed. This can take time to get right and don’t forget to adjust the routine to accommodate the clocks going back at the end of October especially as firework season is just beginning around this time.
If you haven’t got a walking / toileting routine in place, it’s still important to try and walk before dark and allow your dog the chance to relieve him or herself.
Aim to get your dog tired and content during the day with low impact calm exercise to reduce stress levels later on, such as scent work and foraging activities. See Pickpocket Foragers. You can play games with your dog in the house when the fireworks are going off or do simple training exercises with them if they are can be motivated out of fear in this way. If they are too scared, then just allow them to hide and maybe sit with them if that helps.
For cats, it is also good practice to get into a routine where you keep them in between certain times every evening. Maybe they could stay in between 4pm and 11-30pm and go out later. Arrange their feeding times to coincide with this time and put meals in their den for them. As with dogs, you can make sure they get their access to outdoors throughout the day and play games with them in the evening.
Work out if there is a place in the house where your pet naturally runs to when they are afraid. If not, create one in a suitable place. It is better if you can make it away from windows and exterior walls (possibly on the landing or in the hall) as that is where animals tend to head for. Make a den using something like a dog crate and cover it with heavy sound-deadening fabrics and close the curtains in the room. Leave a radio on fairly loud to cover as much of the louder noises as possible.
Get in the habit of taking them to their den in the early evening and giving them something highly rewarding to do in there such as a stuffed Kong toy or a chew. Take them into the den the same time every night with their treat, even if they come back out again once they have finished it. It just means you have a routine in place and the den doesn’t become associated with fireworks and fear only. Save your tastiest treats to this time!
It is important to remain calm and happy for your dog. Close the curtains and turn on the TV and add a radio in another room in plenty of time to drown out the noise as much as you can.
You may have heard that you should not reassure your pet when they are scared because it reinforces their fear. This isn’t true – comforting can help them. However, there could something about the way in which you reassure them that may have an adverse effect. I will explain.
I used to see anxious people in the vet’s waiting room with their equally anxious pet. They would be stroking them rapidly with shaky hands and repeating over and over ‘It’s ok, it’s ok, it’s ok’. This is something many of us automatically say in this type of stressful or scary situation with the best of intentions, but the problem is that what follows is often not ok at all. The animal goes into the consulting room where they may have to have their temperature taken, joints checked, bloods taken or other scary procedures. They could very easily associate you saying ‘It’s ok’ with the idea that something traumatic is about to happen. The same thing can happen when fireworks go off.
So, I would think about the words you say and the things you do and ask yourself if they could have a negative association with something scary or traumatic. I lived with a dog who would look at me as if I tried to murder her if I said ‘Sorry’ for tripping over her or catching her tail or paw. Obviously at some point I had said sorry to her when something had really hurt her, and forever after she saw those words as meaning she had been hurt or was about to be.
Another nice thing to do is read to your dog. You can tell them a story as you would a child by reading it out in a happy voice, or you could tell the story to them using different voices. If you make it a funny story you are likely to laugh (you will probably laugh at yourself reading to your dog anyway!) and that means you don’t seem anxious or concerned, which will help them feel safer. You could also sing a silly song to them for the same reason. Or just talk to them about your day or something on TV. It really doesn’t matter as long as it helps them feel safer rather than worried.
So, what I’m saying is that it’s fine and in fact may be a good idea to reassure them, but make it constructive and useful. If your dog loves a cuddle and that calms them, then do that. If reading to them works, then do that. But watch your dog carefully and just see what their reaction is to your words and actions rather than just reacting with ‘It’s ok’. Remember we are trying to make things seem as normal as possible, not remind them of other stressful occasions.
Remember to keep calm and breathe normally throughout – this will help you to help them. TTouch body work (see below) can also help you to connect and reassure your pet without having to ‘emotionally’ stroke or fuss them. It’s great for helping you both to relax and stay calm.
Other ways to help your pet
Just in case!
Ensure your pet’s microchip contact details are up to date in case your pet runs off and gets lost. Also make sure they wear a tag on their collar just in case the worst happens. With cats, make sure it is a quick release collar so they don’t get caught up on something in panic.
A TTouch practitioner can help you to find the best way to help your pet through scary events using non-habitual body work and groundwork.
Body wraps, T-shirts and Thundershirts
TTouch body wraps can be a good way of reducing anxiety in dogs and should be put on before the fireworks start to avoid association with fireworks and fear (you could do this as part of your routine as mentioned above). Body wraps should not be left on an unattended animal, should not be tight (just snug) and you should make sure they are still willing to walk around with it on as otherwise, if they are very still, they may actually be overwhelmed rather than calm due to the wrap being too much for them. I once saw a horrible video of a cat that couldn’t stand up wearing one because it was shut down and paralysed by the effects of the wrap and that is the last thing you want them to feel. Take time introducing the wrap to your dog and putting it on them.
Thundershirts can have a much stronger effect than body wraps so, as for the wrap, check carefully that your dog is not feeling immobilised by the effect. You can also use an ordinary t-shirt. Body wraps can be a good introduction to both t-shirts and Thundershirts.
Pheromone products are available from vets in the form of diffusers for dogs or cats. These should be put in place early (at least two weeks in advance) to give them time to take effect before the fireworks start and should be left running constantly. Sprays are also available and could be used in a wider variety of places, for example, in the den you have prepared. However, there is a strong alcohol smell when first used so apply it about 20 minutes or more before your dog goes in that area, by which time it will have worn off.
A behaviourist can advise you how to put a desensitisation programme in place for your pet. This must be done carefully and over time and shouldn’t be done close to or during the firework season. The ideal time is around spring and through summer when the risk of fireworks going off and ruining the good work achieved is not a problem. It enables your pet to first get used to the noise of fireworks in a neutral way and then to see them as a positive thing as the programme progresses. The only difficulty with this is accurately reproducing the noise and spatial effects on small speakers. Remember the actual noise is very thundery with some fireworks and this is felt through the floor and heard differently by your dog or cat. It’s hard to get that quality of sound and the effect of fireworks firing in all directions overhead.
Please be aware desensitisation has to be done carefully or the problem can be made much worse. Seek advice from a qualified behaviourist who ONLY uses positive reinforcement. They are the people to guide you through the best way to work with your dog.
Flower remedies such as Rescue Remedy for general stress or Mimulus for fear are widely available from health shops or chemists. See Bach Flower and Bach Flower Pets. There are other flower remedies available, for example, this blog gives details of Lotus Flower Essences which specifically help with firework fear and its aftermath.
Herbal remedies can also help calm your animal. See Herbal Vets for details of herbal vets and checkout the website of herb companies such as Dorwest Herbs. This link gives suggestions for useful herbs .
Essential oils can help. For example, Pet Remedy is a natural de-stress and calming formulation which mimics the body’s own natural calming mechanisms. It can be used in a spray, plug diffuser, atomiser or in calming wipes.
Zoopharmacognosy is a great way to find out which herbs or essential oils your dog prefers to help them feel safe – the animal selects the herb or essential oil itself.
Homeopathy is another effective way to help your animal feel differently about fireworks. If you visit a homeopathic vet, see BAHVS, they can help you find the right remedy combination for your animal. There are some commonly used remedies which can help, but having the ones your pet needs prescribed for you will be much more effective for the long term.
Body Talk is an easy to do hands on therapy which can help your dog to feel safer and less fearful. See our article here to helping animals to feel more relaxed.
Calming soundtracks such as the ‘Through a Dog’s Ear’ or ‘Through a Cat’s Ear’ series can be really effective to have on in the background. They are especially designed to have a calming influence on dogs and cats. Classic Radio has a playlist specifically designed to keep pets calm and happy.
Desensitisation soundtracks can help, but REMEMBER – don’t try this at the last minute. It is best done the following year from February onwards when your work won’t be derailed by a night of noisy fireworks setting you back when you least expect it or need it.
If all else fails, you could drive around with your dog until the fireworks have stopped.
I hope this has helped you understand your pet’s firework fears a little better and given you some great ideas as to how to help them.
Stay calm and stay safe!
How A Natural Response To Fear Can Worsen To Become A Severe Problem
By Julie Moss BSc. Hons, AdvCertVPhys, Dip.APhys.
This blog examines how an unnatural fear response to fireworks occurs. Ways you can help your pet overcome these problems are to be found here.
What causes fear of fireworks?
It is probably fairly obvious that it is the noise which causes the fear in some cats and dogs, as well as horses, livestock and wildlife. Loud bangs are something which most animals and people are programmed to react to. It is a natural response to be startled by a loud bang and this type of inbuilt reaction is to enable the avoidance of danger. People often duck or flinch when surprised by a bang and animals crouch low and make themselves smaller and may also run for cover.
If the noise is an isolated event and there proves to be no immediate danger to avoid, the animal will usually recover fairly quickly and carry on with their previous actions.
If the noises continue, they remain on alert and then try to determine where the safest place to go is to avoid the danger. The way individuals cope with this varies according to previous experience, individual personality and genetic heritage.
Fear is a learned response to something which makes us feel uncertain or unsafe. A loud noise startles an animal and causes them to react to avoid potential danger – that is the physical response to danger. Fear is the emotion attached to the event and serves to enable avoidance of the startling event in the future. This is a sensible strategy to help you stay safe. If you never feared anything you would not learn to avoid potential danger and that would not be a helpful strategy for survival.
The fight or flight response is initiated in reaction to danger, even when there is no actual danger but it simply feels like there is. The response is the same and an animal makes the decision to take flight and escape or go forward and fight off the danger. This is why some dogs may bark at a loud noise and others may run and hide depending on their natural inclination or experience. Others may freeze, become overwhelmed and unable to make a decision.
Previous experience and genetic heritage
Some animals are naturally more fearful than others due to factors like past experience, poor socialisation early in life or due to a genetic predisposition. Others are naturally more confident and less easily startled.
For example, a dog which has been bred from a line of working gundogs is less likely to be frightened by the sound of a gunshot than a dog not bred from working dog lines, because their parents should have been chosen for their ability to respond positively to the sound of gunshot. These dogs are also exposed to the sound of gunshot very early in life and it is part of their daily experience. If they are trained using positive reinforcement, a gunshot signals to them that they need to go off and find whatever has fallen from the sky. This is a fun event for them because they naturally enjoy it as a fundamental part of their life. As a consequence, it has a positive association to them and is remembered that way on an emotional level.
A dog which is not a working gundog (like most of our pet dogs), is genetically of a nervous disposition or which has not been exposed to loud noises in a positive way early in life is much more likely to respond to them in a nervous and fearful way. They have no positive emotion attached to the event and are more likely to want to avoid it rather than see it as heralding a fun event as a gundog might. If the first time they heard a loud noise they ran and hid, then this is likely what they will remember the next time. The positively trained gundog hears a bang and knows it leads to work and enjoyment so they have a ‘let me at it’ approach. The nervous dog hears a bang and knows it leads to feeling unsafe and has a ‘let me get away from it’ approach.
Fear and pain
There is also a link between fear and pain and at its most basic level, this is easy to understand. For instance, if your dog has arthritis, hip dysplasia or any other condition which compromises their mobility, it is likely they will feel pain if they suddenly have to move quickly. They will do this without thinking as they panic and then the pain becomes linked with the thing that frightened them, such as the noise of a firework. If they then try to climb over or under things, this will also cause pain and strengthen the idea that the noise caused the pain. So, fear can make you more sensitive to pain and pain can make you more fearful – a vicious circle.
So, it is well worth getting your dog checked over by your vet and a Veterinary Physiotherapist to make sure there isn’t a hidden painful condition, even if they appear to be running and moving well and particularly if their fear seems to develop suddenly. They can hide painful conditions for a long time until they become more obvious and by then things are quite advanced. Have a look at the information about looking for behavioural or postural signs of hidden pain in dogs.
Specific problems posed by fireworks
The major problem with fireworks is that they are not isolated events. This means a nervous animal has no chance to recover between each one. Today’s fireworks are very loud and can go on for several minutes, which causes big problems for these animals. They hear the first bang and go into hiding because this strategy has worked in the past when they have felt scared. However, if the fireworks continue, they then panic because their strategy isn’t making the scary event go away. This means they don’t feel able to do anything to make the situation better and therefore the fear increases.
This is how phobias develop and phobic animals will react immediately with panic because they no longer have a strategy to make things better and therefore feel powerless and in constant danger. It is a bit like being locked in a room with your worst fear and not being able to find the door to get out. The only thing left to do is panic and this is when the natural fear safety response becomes abnormal and causes prolonged stress to an animal instead of helping them to escape and feel safe.
Another problem with the nature of fireworks is that the sound seems to come from everywhere. As it is only a noise, there is nothing visible to enable an animal to locate the source of the threat. They cannot determine how to run away from something they cannot locate. Fireworks are also travelling through the air as they make a noise and so the source of the noise swirls around, especially if lots of people are setting them off in different locations. Animals this scared don’t know how to get away from something that appears to be everywhere and so they panic even more and feel helpless in their inability to get to safety. They cannot resolve the situation in a way which results in relief and this is terrifying for them.
Generalisation of fear
Your pet may be afraid of fireworks only. Or they may be afraid of lots of things – and not just noises - such as thunder, rain and darkness. Fear can begin in response to a specific event such as a firework going off as your cat is about to use the litter tray one evening in winter. This may result in the cat simply responding to the noise of fireworks in future. However, they may also begin to avoid using the litter tray in the evening when it’s dark. Or worse still, avoid it all the time. This is called generalisation of fear when a specific event triggers a fearful memory, but other factors connected with the event also can cause fear. Another example would be a dog going for a walk in winter when a loud firework goes off on the other side of a fence. The dog may never want to go near that fence again or it may not even go down the road that the fence is on. This may only happen in the dark or they may even feel the same during the day depending how traumatic it was for them.
It depends on the nature of your pet as to whether they generalise easily, but it is also influenced by how long the fear response goes on, how often and how severely frightening the event was. The first year your pet is exposed to fireworks they may develop a fear of them and certain loud banging noises throughout the following year, such as thunder. After bonfire night in the second year, you may find they are even more sensitive to any banging noises, even quiet ones, throughout the following year. If there are then several thunderstorms in a week accompanied by rain, then rain may be added to their list of things to be scared of, because it happened at the same time as the thunder. This list can extend to car doors banging, any whistling sounds or loud rumbly car engines and many other similar noises resulting in the world being filled with scary things every day. Fear that has generalised to this degree can threaten quality of life as the animal gets very little respite from fearful events.
Having a fearful pet may feel overwhelming and be distressing for you. However, there are many things you can try to help your animal – see here for ideas.
Firework season is upon us again, and many animals and people struggle with the noise that some fireworks make.
My name is Elaine Downs, and I am a qualified Body Talk Practitioner for animals and humans. In this short blog I will explain to you how one of the Body Talk techniques can help both animals and humans to feel calmer when they hear the bangs from the fireworks.
First let me give you a short explanation of what Body Talk is and does.
Body Talk is an Energy Therapy which helps to restore balance in areas of your body/mind complex where imbalance has arisen. Every part of our body and mind is connected to, and in constant communication with, every other part of our body and mind. When we feel stressed or ill, it is because the communication has broken down between certain parts of our body/mind complex. Body Talk uses certain techniques to re-balance, and restore that communication between the affected parts. Body Talk works to re-balance the whole, not just a specific bit of an individual’s body/mind complex.
Body Talk is extremely effective in helping animals as well as humans.
The technique which is extremely helpful in calming fears of loud noises is called the Cortices Technique. This technique balances all areas of the brain, and is very calming and relaxing to receive. Recipients have been known to fall asleep whilst receiving a cortices treatment.
It doesn’t take long to do, and you can do it directly on your animal if they don’t mind having their head being touched. Alternatively you can be the surrogate for your animal and do it on yourself for your animal, whilst you are with them. Keep repeating the technique for as long as you need to, until your animal calms down and starts to relax.
Here is a link to a Body Talk Practitioner demonstrating the Cortices Technique on herself.
Here is a link to the Body Talk System website, if you would like to read more about it.
Many of us have heard of Flower Essences such as Dr Bach’s Rescue Remedy to help us and our animals at stressful times. Julie Bowman of Lotus Holistic Essences was invited to inspire us with some tips for flower essences to help on Firework Night and New Years Eve.
Julie told us that her own combinations of Helping Hands, Five Flower and Animal Support are all useful essences to hold in your emergency kit. These can be put into an animal’s food, stroked through their fur, put into their water or sprayed on bedding.
Julie recommends giving them at least 3 times a day during stressful periods such as house moves or the arrival of a new animal or baby. In acute moments of stress such as a noisy firework display, she suggests putting it onto a healthy treat and to keep repeating until the animal settles. The great thing about essences is that they are very safe and have no side effects.
Julie has been using essences since 1984 and has produced her own since 2004. She has worked as a therapist since 1993 and enjoys working extensively with people and animals. She knows that flower essences are effective with animals as many pet owners return for repeat prescriptions. You can contact her to have your own tailor-made essences.
Find out more about Julie’s essences and her book on them here
“Everyone thinks they have the best dog in the world and none of them are wrong”
In celebration of dogs everywhere, here is a gallery of a tiny handful of our supporters' canines. They have all been helped by Complementary and Alternative Medicine – some of it life-saving (look out for the interloper!)
Our perfect pooches have benefited from the modalities below either as complementary to conventional treatment or as an alternative (before drugs or surgery).
Herbal Medicine and Supplements
Most are raw fed
And don’t forget our Dog Blog Stars Fire Dog Kai, Lizzie and Ralphie
These are interesting times on Facebook and Twitter. Those of us running our social media profiles watch as our supporters push back against some pretty vitriolic views of a small group of known homeopathy denialists including some vets resistant to considering other options to drugs.
One thing needs to be made clear about where CAM4animals stands. We are NOT anti-vet. Quite the opposite. We are also NOT "anti-vax". Many of us have to vaccinate in order to compete, but we are mostly anti over-vaccination (in line with WSAVA guidelines). We are devoted and sensible pet owners and farmers who want to work closely with our vets to achieve the best possible health for our animals with the minimal amount of chemical intervention.
In order to do this, we all understand that sometimes pharmaceutical products are necessary BUT, some animals may not respond to this option or have shown severe adverse effects. It is therefore useful to know that there are other options available either after you’ve tried drugs or before you go down that route because you have knowledge of your animal’s history. Responsible pet owners want to have a conversation with their vet about this and we are confident that any vet worth their salt will also want to have this conversation.
All of our supporters know that various holistic modalities can work for their animals and sometimes they don’t, just as drugs can work and sometimes, they don’t. Our supporters also know that there is a time and a place for pharmaceutical intervention; emergency care is an obvious example. But, following emergency care, and even before the vet gets there, a modality such as homeopathy can be very useful. You can address the shock of an accident while waiting for the vet and remedies are well known by homeopaths to speed up healing following surgery. This is integrated care at its best. It can also empower the vet nurse who is handling the situation either till the vet arrives or during surgery after-care. (Look out for our blogs on this topic.)
We are all familiar with the dog with arthritis who does well on Green Lipped Mussel or Omega 3. These sort of products are available on many vet surgery shelves. They are often used successfully before conventional treatment is needed, staving off the day when Metacam or similar has to be used to prolong quality of life. Similarly, homeopathy, acupuncture, herbs, hydrotherapy or the bodywork therapies can be invaluable in these situations. This demonstrates well how alternative, conventional and complementary care would be used in treating one animal at different stages of the disease.
What if this drive to ridicule holistic veterinary practitioners eventually gets a hold? The result is that young vets might be turned against CAM particularly by being fed inaccurate information about the effectiveness of the Big Five - acupuncture, homeopathy, herbs, chiropractic and osteopathic care. As a result, not only have our new vets lost a whole tool-kit of options available to them to achieve the best possible outcome for their patients, but we lose the skill pool of veterinary CAM knowledge used to develop popular and commonly used products. We also stand to lose the understanding of raw feeding and the usefulness of the Big Five in integrated veterinary healthcare. This leaves the responsible animal owner not only with just pharma options, but also a complete absence of knowledge on alternatives. This is a future CAM4animals will fight hard to resist.
So, to be very clear…. CAM4animals recognises the need for pharmaceutical intervention. We also support the use of alternative healthcare, particularly because it protects the veterinary skill pool able to provide the knowledge and research needed to ensure a future for complementary and integrated healthcare.
Can we please have a halt to the ridiculing of the responsible animal owner by anti-CAM vets and their sceptic supporters. This is not helping to engender a good relationship between vets and their paying customers. We also call for a halt to the aggressive demands by anti-CAM vets for their customers to provide information and evidence of alternative medicines. There is a large body of evidence available and there are also fully trained colleagues for specialist help. Ideally, CAM should be comprehensively covered in vet and vet nurse courses. In the meantime, here are some good places for both vet and animal owner to start finding out accurate information.
Our blog here! – we are working to provide accurate and well-informed information on all forms of CAM.
AO The Association of Animal Osteopaths
ABVA The Association of British Veterinary Acupuncturists
BAHVS The British Association of Homeopathic Veterinary Surgeons
BAVH The British Association of Veterinary Herbalists
BVCA The British Veterinary Chiropractic Association
CMG The Canine Massage Guild
HRI The Homeopathy Research Institute HRI
MCA The McTimony Chiropractic Association
It wasn’t until I had the opportunity to fulfill a lifelong dream and keep a few cattle and sheep that I started to think a bit harder about nutrition. Simplistically, I believed that cattle and sheep lived in fields and ate grass – let’s face it, a three-year-old child could tell you that! My livestock had the good fortune to be kept in this way, but not the cattle at the nearby dairy farm, where the poor creatures were on very nearly a zero grazing system (not at all uncommon). I felt strongly that this was wrong and was chatting to the herd manager one day when he asked me why I fed my dogs biscuits. Well, to say this was a lightbulb moment would be putting it mildly!
It was also interesting that my large animal vets were telling me NOT to worm my sheep and cattle, but rather to look at faecal samples for parasite eggs. On the other hand, my dog vets were telling me to deworm and flea treat them monthly. How did this make sense?
Another turning point was the opportunity to attend the Homeopathy at Wellie Level course, introducing farmers to using homeopathy as part of their stock management. This course absolutely blew my mind. I’d been interested in homeopathy for ages, largely due to hearing vets talking about what rubbish it was ~ I am rather contrary! It made so much sense to work WITH the body rather than against it, wherever possible, and I have seen astonishing results with my livestock, my dogs and myself.
I have been incredibly fortunate to have had my eyes opened in these ways. It makes me very sad that my professional governing body, the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons, is so un-supportive of vets who are open minded enough to explore the whole gamut of ways to help keep animals well – that’s all their guardians want, and surely the animals themselves too. I am lucky to work closely with vets who focus on the importance of real, species appropriate foods and to have my own animals treated by vets offering acupuncture, homeopathy and many of the other treatment modalities frowned upon by the RCVS.
My own experience certainly isn’t statistically significant, but losing my first dog aged nine who was absolutely riddled with cancer and having been fed on kibble, compared to losing my second dog aged just short of 17 and having been raw fed, not vaccinated (but regularly titre and worm tested) and rarely having any pharmaceutical medicines, convinces me that I have followed the right path, and I am determined to do what I can to encourage others to do likewise.
I am looking forward to popping in here from time to time to give you more Vet Nurse stories and information. Meanwhile, you can find more information here:
Morag Sutherland RVN, APDT, ABTC
Morag is a Registered Veterinary Nurse and a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (UK) and the Association of INTO Dogs. Morag has a special interest in nutrition for dogs and horses, particularly in how it affects their behaviour. She is co-owner of Gelert Behaviour Training, which offers dog and other pet training services, as well as regular workshops, talks and events across the Midlands, including Worcestershire, Warwickshire, Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire.
Dogs can go through life coping with underlying physical conditions and many of these go undiscovered for many years. Many of my canine physiotherapy patients originally come for behavioural therapy where we discover the behaviour problems are a result of hidden pain.
In part one we looked at behavioural signs of hidden musculoskeletal problems and how they can be misunderstood. In part two we will be looking at postural signs that can indicate an underlying problem which may be causing your dog difficulty. Most people assume that if their dog can run and jump they do not have any musculoskeletal problems. Surely if they were in pain they wouldnt do that would they?
Well yes, they would, and they do. As we discussed in part one, dogs are amazing creatures with four legs, which means they can shift weight off the bad limb/area and carry on. This is how they manage to go on for many years without anyone realising. They can do this until the other limbs suffer from the extra strain, which is when they become obviously lame. However, there are signs much earlier on, if you know what to look for.
Watch your dog in different situations and notice whether they are pointing one or more feet out to the side or in towards the opposite leg. Are their feet very close together or far apart when they stand still? Do they seem to be leaning to one side slightly and leaning more on one limb at the front or back? Do they keep their hind limbs forward under their body rather than slightly behind them when they stand? Are the nails scuffed or excessively worn or long on any of the toes? Are any of the pads worn to one side? Look at your dogs footprints when they are wet, walking in snow or sand. Are they even?
These things can all indicate under or over-use of a limb and can indicate increased or reduced weight bearing. It can also tell you if they are not picking certain feet up cleanly or if they have altered they way they stand on a particular limb.
Look at them at different times or in different positions as sometimes things are more obvious than others, for example, when they are tired.
Jake before and after a walk
Look closely at your dog from in front, behind and above. Do they have bigger muscles on one side than the other? Use your hands to feel both sides at the same time. Do they feel bigger on one side than the other? Common places to notice this are over the hindquarters and the shoulders.
Again, these observations can tell you that they are using one side more than the other. look for subtle differences to catch the early signs. See if you can feel the bony areas around and between the muscles slightly on one side more than the other.
Muscle wastage on the right limb, which is the side of the weaker hip.
Notice coat changes. These can creep in very gradually or be dramatic changes that come in quite fast. taking regular photographs of your dog can help you see if something is new or not.
Does the coat feels brittle, dry or scurfy in specific areas and different in others? Are there areas of fur that constantly stick up or out? Are there swirls or partings where the hair changes direction or lies flat or raised? Is it harder to run your fingers through the coat in certain places?
These signs can all indicate signs of strain in nearby or underlying soft tissues where circulation may be compromised or there is muscle tension. The patterns may not be where the problem is but they could tell you your dog is using their body in a way that is putting it under strain. Combined with the other observations we are looking at, they can give you extra information and clues.
Note the swirls and partings in the coat along the length of the spine.
Lying and sitting
Does your dog always lie on one side? Do they always sit on one side? Do they always get up using the same leg first? If you are training your dog do they seem ‘stubborn’ or ‘slow’ when you ask them to sit, lie or stand? Do you have difficulty getting a tidy, even sit? Do they take their time getting up or down? Do they fidget?
Maybe they cant use one or more of their limbs properly. Perhaps there is a joint problem preventing them from flexing and extending their limbs to the extent needed to sit or lie correctly or get up efficiently.
Lying with one hind limb positioned to make getting up easier. Just the paw pads are in contact with the floor for easy push off whilst sparing the more worn hip on the right side.
Filming your dog can tell you a lot. If you have a slow motion function on your phone you can use that. If not you can run normal film through one of the many slow motion apps available. Slowing it right down can help you see small signs as your dog moves. It can also be really useful to show your vet to illustrate what you are seeing as these things are rarely picked up in a vet consult room,especially if the signs are subtle.
Can your dog turn both ways easily? You can use widely spaced weave poles to check if your dog can do this. if you do agility does your dog tend to go wide one way on weaves, or both ways? Do they struggle to come round for jumps or obstacles from the right or left? Do they always turn one way during everyday activities? Look closely.
Can your dog get in and out of the car or on and off the sofa easily and cleanly or do they catch their hind limbs or pull up with their front limbs? Can they climb the stairs slowly? Many dogs run up and down to minimise the discomfort and may ‘bunny hop’ through most running and jumping exercises (using both hind limbs together to push off).
Does your dog pull on the lead? This may be because its uncomfortable to load the hindlimbs, causing them to lean forward and be unbalanced
Leaning on the forelimbs causing pulling on the lead.
Does your dog not want to do things they used to? Have they changed their patterns? Maybe they are choosing to lie in unusual places or on unusual surfaces? Do they seem more nervous or afraid than they used to? Have they always been nervous or afraid? Have they stopped interacting with other dogs or have they always been reluctant to do so? Are they growling at the groomer now? Have they always growled at the groomer? Do they seem afraid to go for a walk or stop and refuse to walk part way through? Many so called ‘stubborn’ dogs actually are having problems doing what you want them to do.
As I said at the beginning, dogs can go for many years of their lives with a hidden condition. So if they have always struggled with handling or interactions with others then it is worth getting them checked over thoroughly. Even if they ‘have always been like that’. If there are sudden changes we tend to suspect a problem easier than if the problems have always been there but vary in degrees of severity. Remember dogs can be struggling with these issues from a very young age, even as a very young puppy. As they grow up, people then think its just how they are, as musculoskeletal issues are not considered unless dogs are older. So, its possible that a dogs life and happiness could be completely changed if a condition was discovered at a very young age, the pain was managed and the dog could feel comfortable and capable of everyday activities without painful repercussions.
I hope this gives you some pointers as to signs of hidden problems in your own dogs.
Julie Moss BSc. Hons., AdvCertVPhys, Dip.APhys.
Julie is a canine behaviourist, veterinary physiotherapist and TTouch Practitioner. She started Best Behaviour in 2005, which has since become part of her new venture, Canine Mind and Body Balance. She has a special interest in integrative veterinary care, where CAM therapies play an important role in truly holistic animal care. Her passion is working with older animals to give them back the best quality of life possible and she is committed to education and enabling people to recognise early signs of lameness in our dogs.
Seven years ago, a very special puppy was born in Hilbrae Rescue Kennels after his Mum was taken in by the centre in Shropshire. Kai the Belgian Shepherd Malinois was adopted by Mat Dixon and so began the start of a wonderful and very unusual relationship.
Although Kai is nimble and sure-footed, the nature of his work means his body gets a battering and he can suffer aches, pains and stiffness as a result. A chance meeting at Crufts a year ago resulted in Kai receiving Galen Myotherapy sessions with founder, Julia Robertson. Galen Myotherapy is a unique and highly specialised manual and exercise management therapy for dogs. It uses appropriate, effective and targeted massage techniques and exercise to manage chronic muscular pain, reduce inflammation and to maximise muscle function. Perfect therapy for a very active fire dog!
Mat and Kai at Crufts demonstrating Galen Therapy with Sue MacLennan
Galen also considers the needs of the whole dog, and the relationship they have with their owner.
Mat, who has always had a deep bond with Kai, admits he was sceptical at first, thinking he was keeping Kai nice and fit and allowing him to live life to the full. “I thought there was little need to consider anything else,” he says.
However, during his initial session with Julia, she advised him not to take Kai running with him to the degree he was currently. She explained that Kai was happy to run with Mat simply to be with him, but that this was not necessarily the same as it being good for him to run the distances they were covering especially on top of all the other physical work Kai did. Mat says that he hadn’t appreciated this view but could see it made sense.
Following this revelation, Mat realised that much of his leisure time with Kai was previously spent engaging in exciting play, tugging and jumping on and off things, and chasing and jumping up to catch balls. Mat could see that so much frantic activity on top of Kai’s busy working day was not helping his dog to relax and was actually over-stimulating for them both.
This prompted Mat to attend a Galen Myotherapy course for owners where he learned how to perform two simple hands-on techniques, along with an insight into canine functional anatomy that enabled him to find tender areas on Kai. Also, by spending quiet time on the special mat used for their at-home Galen treatments, Mat has found that he’s built a much calmer and empathetic relationship with his dog.
Julia feels that Galen Myotherapy is an investment in this special dog. “It costs a considerable amount of money to train working dogs, particularly specialists like Kai,” she says. “Routine care like this enables these dogs to stay well and enjoy their working lives for longer.” Mat agrees and believes that keeping Kai healthy - physically and mentally - will extend his working life as a firedog. When he’s operating in the most demanding and hazardous situations, holding an injury may place him in even greater danger and might even shorten his working life. The routine Galen Myotherapy is keeping Kai more mobile and flexible and he can now rely on his body more.
An unexpected bonus of receiving Galen Myotherapy is an increase in Kai’s ability to focus at work. Firedogs such as Kai are problem solving dogs. They can be used where no man, machine or technology can work. Traces of flammable materials are measured in parts per million. It is now known that dogs can smell in parts per quadrillion – that’s 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000!
“The problem here is that dogs are sensing material where even the lab equipment can’t. You have to learn to trust your dog,” says Mat. Now that his empathy and understanding of Kai has improved, this is even easier for Mat to do.
You can follow Firedog Kai on Facebook at “Fire Dog Kai” and on Twitter @WMFireDogs
For information on the courses run by Galen Myotherapy for dog owners, vets and potential therapists click here.